For non-connoisseurs and two-buck-chuck aficionados, there’s a moment of minor social panic when dining out and it’s time to select a bottle of the good stuff for the table. “Oh gosh,” you think. “Don’t ask for my opinion. I do not have an opinion. Don’t pour that first sip for me. Don’t make me swirl the glass like I know what I’m doing. Please for the love of all things holy just bring us the basic House whatever and let’s move onto the food.”

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